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Red Velvet Beet Cake Recipe

April 15, 2019 by

Red Velvet Beet Cake recipe from Dandelion Chocolate cookbook

from Lisa Vega, Dandelion Chocolate Executive Pastry Chef and co-author of Making Chocolate: From Bean to Bar to S’more

RECOMMENDED CHOCOLATE PROFILE: earthy, savory, funky

We developed this cake—our version of classic red velvet—to complement the earthy, funky, sometimes grassy flavor profile of our Liberian chocolate. Some of us think it tastes like caramel and cinnamon; others taste iron shavings and a freshly mowed lawn. This chocolate is a customer favorite, and it earned a Good Food Award in 2014, which seems to be how our most polarizing chocolates work. Either way, we like the way the vegetal sweetness of the roasted beets plays off the chocolate, and the striking contrast of vibrant red against the shining, jet-black ganache layers.

YIELD: one 8-inch 4-layer cake

INGREDIENTS:

Cake 
672 grams / 1½ pounds medium red beets
5 large eggs at room temperature
2¾ cups / 570 grams / 20 ounces sugar
½ teaspoon / 2 grams kosher salt
2¼ cups / 226 grams / 8 ounces cake flour, sifted
5 tablespoons / 36 grams / 1¼ ounces ground chocolate, chef’s chocolate, or 70% chocolate finely ground in a spice grinder
butter for the pan

Chocolate Caramel Ganache
2¾ cups / 412 grams / 14 ounces ground chocolate, chef’s chocolate, or chopped 70% chocolate
¾ cup / 150 grams / 5½ ounces sugar
2 cups / 450 grams / 16 ounces heavy cream

DIRECTIONS:

Make the cake
Prepare the beets: Preheat the oven to 350°F (176.7°C). Wrap each beet in foil, and roast the beets for about 1 hour, until a knife pokes easily through the entire flesh. Allow the beets to cool in the foil, and then carefully peel each beet, discarding the skins. In a blender, puree the cooked beets on high speed with 3 tablespoons water until very smooth, a minute or two. Measure out 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (480 grams / 17 ounces) of the puree, and set it aside. (Reserve the remaining puree for another use.)

Spray or butter two 8-inch round cake pans, line them with parchment, and grease again. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the eggs, sugar, and salt on high speed until the mixture becomes pale in color and falls back on itself in ribbons when the whisk is removed,  4 to 6 minutes. Fold in the beet puree until the batter is streaked with color but not completely incorporated.  This will prevent the beaten eggs from deflating too much as you mix the batter.

Sift together the cake flour and finely ground chocolate, then fold them into the batter until just combined. Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared cake pans.

Bake the cakes for 25 to 30 minutes, until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the cakes to cool completely on a wire rack, and refrigerate or freeze them before slicing the cakes in half horizontally (using a serrated knife) to make 4 cake rounds.

Make the ganache: 
Place the chocolate in a large bowl and set aside. Heat the sugar over medium-low heat in a dry heavy-duty saucepan. Watch it carefully—the sugar on the bottom will begin to melt.  When you see the edges begin to brown, use a heatproof spatula to drag the sugar toward the center to prevent any burning, and continue to stir occasionally until the sugar is completely melted and has turned a medium amber color.

Remove the pan from the heat and immediately start pouring the cream into the caramel in a small, steady stream, while whisking constantly. The caramel will bubble violently and may even seize up slightly, and that’s okay. Continue to whisk, and put the pan back on high heat. As you bring the caramel liquid to a  boil, any seized sugar chunks that may remain should dissolve. Once the liquid reaches a rolling boil, immediately pour it over the chocolate. Let the hot cream sit undisturbed on top of the chocolate for 30  seconds. Then use a whisk to stir slowly at first and then more vigorously as the chocolate and cream combine and the mixture thickens. The ganache should appear shiny and thick, but still be liquid enough to pour. Allow the ganache to fully cool and thicken before assembling the cake.

Using a large offset spatula, spread a thin layer of ganache evenly on top of each cake layer, and layer one on top of another to create a 4-layer cake. Before cutting it, allow the cake to set in the refrigerator, uncovered, for about an hour. The cake will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for several days, or in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Elman Introduces the 2017 Harvest Cahabón, Guatemala 70% Chocolate Bar

March 21, 2019 by

Elman is a Senior Chocolate Maker at our Valencia Street factory and the profile developer of our Cahabón, Guatemala 70% 2017 Harvest chocolate bar. His story is a Dandelion Chocolate first: he was born in Guatemala City, and his father is from the north region, so this bar has such a strong family connection for him. Elman takes pride in all of his work, but he feels a particular responsibility in this 2019 release. We’ve asked him to share his experience with and connection to the cocoa beans from Cahabón.

(La traducción al español está abajo.)

Elman, Chocolate Maker at Dandelion Chocolate

Back in the day when I joined Dandelion Chocolate, I was so happy that the company was working with beans from my country of Guatemala. It was an amazing surprise and I felt really proud that my country was represented in such a delicious way. I’ve always wanted to work with the Cahabón, Guatemala beans but I knew it was a long shot. I was sad when I heard the Cahabón bar was no longer being made by the Valencia team, but also happy because I got to work with beans that have some cultural relationship with Guatemala.

I was given the opportunity to work with the Guatemalan beans for a limited time. This profile is going to be produced just one time and only tempered for two weeks before it is gone forever. I want to give this origin the farewell it surely deserves for what it represents to me.

While working with these beans, I was surprised to find a different set of flavors from our previous 2014 Harvest Cahabón, Guatemala bar, which tasted like rich chocolate, walnuts, and liquid caramel. This new bar iteration of these fantastic beans is packed with lots of fruity notes while keeping its rich chocolatey notes. That was a nice surprise and something I knew I wanted to explore. I wanted to give the Cahabón bar more balanced tasting notes and get rid of the earthiness that the previous bar had. I still wanted to take the people trying the bar on a roller coaster of taste, but I wanted that experience to stay in the same line of flavors. That’s why this new bar starts with fruity notes that transform into rich chocolate and finishes with tart, fruity notes.

Is this bar a personal achievement? The answer is YES! I love my country and I’m proud of what farmers are able to produce and the dedication that they put into their crops. This time it’s not just about my country, but also the reiteration of my love and passion of what I do for a living. I love working with chocolate and having opportunities like this profile. It helps me to showcase how much I have learned over the years. I’m beyond blessed to have had the chance to learn from people with so much talent and knowledge. My hope is to be able to pay it back and share that knowledge and passion with my team members.

**

Elman es un fabricante de chocolates en nuestra fábrica de Valencia Street y el desarrollador del perfil de nuestra barra de chocolate de 70% de Cahabón, Guatemala de la cosecha 2017. Su historia es única en la historia de Dandelion Chocolate: Elman nació en la ciudad de Guatemala, y parte de la la familia de su padre viene de la región norte del país, por lo que esta barra tiene una conexión familiar muy fuerte para él. Elman se enorgullece de todo su trabajo, pero siente una responsabilidad particular en esta versión del 2018. Le hemos pedido que comparta su experiencia y conexión con los granos de cacao de Cahabón.

El día en que me uní a Dandelion Chocolate, estaba muy feliz de que la compañía trabajara con semillas de cacao de mi país: Guatemala. Fue una sorpresa increíble y me sentí realmente orgulloso de que mi país estuviera representado de una manera tan deliciosa. Siempre quise trabajar con las semillas de Cahabón, Guatemala, pero sabía que era una posibilidad algo remota. Me sentí triste cuando escuché que la producción de la barra de chocolate de Cahabón iba a concluir, pero también feliz porque pude trabajar con semillas que tienen alguna relación cultural con Guatemala.

Recientemente, me dieron la oportunidad de trabajar con la semilla de cacao Guatemalteca por un tiempo limitado. Este perfil se producirá solo una vez y solo se templará durante dos semanas antes de que desaparezca para siempre. Es mi deseo darle a este origen la despedida que seguramente merece por lo que representa para mí.

Mientras trabajaba con esta semilla, me sorprendió encontrar un conjunto diferente de sabores a la de nuestra barra de la cosecha 2014, la cual tenía un sabor profundo a chocolate, nueces y caramelo líquido. Esta nueva versión de esta fantástica semilla está repleta de notas frutales y mantiene sus notas profundas a chocolate. Esa fue una agradable sorpresa y algo que sabía que quería explorar. Quería darle a la barra de Cahabón notas de sabor más equilibradas y deshacerme de la terrenalidad que tenía la barra anterior. Quería llevar a la gente que probará esta barra de chocolate en una montaña rusa de sabor, pero quiero que esa experiencia se mantenga en una misma línea de sabores. Es por eso que esta nueva barra comienza con notas frutales que se transforman en un chocolate profundo y terminan con notas agrias y afrutadas.

¿Es esta barra un logro personal? ¡La respuesta es sí! Amo a mi país y estoy orgulloso de lo que los agricultores pueden producir y de la dedicación que ponen en sus cultivos. Esta vez no se trata solo de mi país, sino también de la reiteración de mi amor y pasión por lo que hago para ganarme la vida. Me encanta trabajar con chocolate y de tener oportunidades como desarrollar este perfil. Lo cual me ayuda a mostrar cuánto he aprendido a través de los años. Estoy más que feliz de haber tenido la oportunidad de aprender de personas con tanto talento y conocimiento a través de los años. Mi esperanza es poder devolver la oportunidad y poder compartir ese conocimiento y pasión con los miembros de mi equipo actual.

Education Station: Is that Cacao Pod Ripe?

April 28, 2017 by

You’re curious, so we find answers. Our education team fields lots of questions from our guests during classes, so we’ve decided to launch a brand new series of monthly installments in which we tackle some of those questions and share the answers with the world. We call it The Education Station. This week, Cynthia takes a close look at cacao pods, and answers a question she’s been getting a lot ever since she started importing fresh pods from Ecuador for classes: when is a cacao pod ripe?

A cacao pod—the fruit of the theobroma cacao tree—starts off as a tiny flower, and over the course of many months after it’s pollinated, that flower gives way to a plump and colorful pod filled with seeds. The fruit has a long growing season and even grows year round in some countries, typically between 20 degrees north and south of the equator.  Unlike many of the fruits we’re used to in the US, cacao pods grow year round, and they don’t all tend to ripen at the same time or even in the same season.

Take a look at the tree below. Note that there are tiny flowers growing directly on the trunk. You can see two of them approximately in the middle of the trunk in this photo. At the same time, we notice the unripe cacao fruit which is the deep almost purplish red fruit with hints of green on the top left side. And there is ripe cacao fruit too, the yellowish pods with a dusting of red on the trunk near the flowers.

What does that tell you? You can have many pods on one tree all with varying levels of ripeness. You are likely to harvest some pods now, others next week or in a few months, and if you wait for those flowers to become ripe pods you’ll be back to harvest them in five or six months. So how does one know which pods are ripe?

IS IT THE COLOR?

You might think, based on your experience with fruit throughout your life, that we could guess a pod’s ripeness based on its color. You’re not wrong, but you’re not totally right either (sorry). Judging ripeness isn’t as simple as looking at the color because there are so many different types of cacao, and the way they express their ripeness varies.

Does this rainbow colored cacao pod from Brazil look ripe?

Think about apples. Are you thinking about apples? Good. Think about all the different kinds in a grocery store—green Granny Smith or Gravenstein, blushing red and yellow Fuji, or deep red Ruby Delicious. They’re different colors but all of them might be ripe, and the same is true of cacao. I’ve seen cacao fruit that was ripe when it was red and cacao fruit that was unripe when it was red.

A pile of ripe pods, every color of the rainbow. Thanks to Greg D and Dandelion Chocolate Japan for taking this great shot while visiting Marou Chocolate in 2016.

At the same time, if the apples on the tree in your back yard always started out green and turn red when ripe, you would know to wait until they turned red. Someone who had no idea what type of apple tree you had might not know whether it produced green, yellow or red apples, and wouldn’t know when to pick them. This is why cacao farmers must get to know their trees so well. But how are the rest of us to know? Luckily, there are a few tricks.

1. SHAKE THE POD

When you shake a whole pod, do you feel the insides moving around slightly? If yes, it’s probably ripe. Or is it sloshing around like a can of soup? If that’s the case then it’s likely overripe. As the cacao pod ripens, the sugars and pulp in the fruit develop and the seeds loosen from the husk, making a juicy, sloshy fruit. If a pod is unripe, the fruit will be more connected to the outer husk and will feel more like shaking a solid object, like that apple we started out with.

Imagine this cacao pod was whole and you shook it… see that gap between the inner fruit and the outer husk? You would feel the insides moving separately.

So, great! That was easy. Just shake the pod and listen. But wait, is there a way to test ripeness before you’ve gone and cut the pod off the tree? Good question. We learned another trick from our friend Will when we harvested cacao at his farm, Steelgrass Farms, in Kauai.

 

2. GET UNDER THE SKIN

Okay, this might sound like the most annoying option but I promise it’s not. (But I don’t promise to stop the bad jokes). The color of a cacao pod is the color of only the very thin, outer layer of the husk. The color of the thick husk beneath that skin changes depending on ripeness. If you scrape the husk with your fingernail and find green underneath like I did in the photo above, the fruit is unripe. If you scrape the husk and find yellow or white, then it’s ripe. And that’s that!

Progression from unripe to ripe.
Left: A cacao pod that is unripe. See the green color just below the layer of red?
Middle: A cacao pod that is slightly under-ripe. Note the slight greenish color just below the red outer layer of the fruit.
Right: A ripe cacao pod. Note the pale yellow color stretches throughout the husk of the fruit directly to the outer yellow layer.

Now that you can’t wait to try out these techniques (I can see you jumping out of your seat), your next question might be: where can I find a cacao pod?? Luckily for you, no need to get yourself to a cacao farm. We’ve got fresh cacao pods weekly in the factory, and all you have to do is sign up for our Chocolate 101 class! We’ll also bring them to occasional demos, like our upcoming demo on June 10th from 1-3pm at the Conservatory of Flowers.

EDUCATION STATION: Ground Chocolate

March 25, 2017 by

You’re curious, so we find answers. Our education team fields many questions from our guests in classes, so we’ve decided to launch a brand new series in which we tackle some of the questions we get most often. We call it The Education Station, and it’s where you’ll find the answers to just about everything from what cocoa beans are made of to why cocoa powder and ground chocolate are not the same. Speaking of…

What IS this?? Keep reading to find out.

It’s A Grind!

Sometimes people ask us how we make our hot chocolate so, well, chocolatey. Do we pour chocolate from our melangers (the machine that grinds, conches, and mixes cocoa beans and sugar to turn them into chocolate) straight into their cups?  

Sadly, if we poured chocolate from a melanger into your cup it would solidify pretty quickly and be too thick to drink. So how then, do you make a thick, rich hot chocolate?

The answer is that we make a rich base with ground chocolate. But what, might you ask, is ground chocolate? Is it like cocoa powder? Most hot chocolate recipes are based on cocoa powder, which is in its own way a kind of ground chocolate so that would be a good guess, but they are very, very different.

Since this often seems to be a confusing subject, I’ve taken the opportunity to demonstrate some of the differences between the two.

 

What is cocoa powder?

Many people assume that cocoa powder is simply ground up cocoa nibs. It’s a good guess, but the thing is, cocoa nibs liquify when you grind them. Cocoa nibs are made up of approximately 50% fat, or cocoa butter, and when the heat from the friction inherent in grinding the cocoa nibs meets that cocoa butter in the nibs, it melts. Thus, when you grind up cocoa nibs you end up with more of a crunchy peanut butter-like paste rather than a powder. (Don’t trust me, try it! Throw some nibs in a blender, food processor, or between a mortar and pestle.)

So if not ground nibs, then what is cocoa powder? I’ll give you a clue: cocoa powder comes from a part of the cocoa nib. Cocoa nibs are composed of two things (if we’re being relatively simplistic): cocoa solids and cocoa butter. Now, it’s worth saying here that there are no definition of “cocoa solid” that is universally agreed upon. Technically, there are non-fat cocoa solids (the brown, flavorful stuff in a cocoa nib) and fatty cocoa solids (usually called cocoa butter). For simplicity, we call the brown flavorful component the “cocoa solids,” and the fat “cocoa butter.” So, we’ll roll with that for now. 

Back to our programming: cocoa powder comes from the solids. But how do you separate the two? Well, it takes some heat and a lot of pressure to press most of the cocoa butter out of the cocoa nibs. To make cocoa powder, the remaining solid parts of the nibs are ground up. Since most of the cocoa butter was pressed out, cocoa solids won’t liquify when you grind them up, instead becoming a dry powder. In the video below, I’m pressing the cocoa butter out of our nibs using a seed oil extractor, and the butter that comes out is still brown because it’s not a perfect pressing. But, you get the idea.

An interesting note: Sometimes cocoa powder is chemically treated with an alkali solution to make it taste less acidic and more “chocolate-y.” These will be labeled “Dutch-processed” or “alkalized.” For more on Dutch-processed versus natural cocoa powder check out David Lebovitz’s informative blog on the subject.  

 

So, what is ground chocolate?  

In short, ground chocolate is just what it sounds like: chocolate ground into a powder. Most of the ground chocolate we make at Dandelion is made out of 70% dark chocolate (ingredients: 70% cocoa nibs and 30% sugar, by weight). So to recap, cocoa powder is basically cocoa solids (with a tiny bit of fat that couldn’t be pressed out), and ground chocolate is three things: sugar, and cocoa solids and cocoa butter (the two components of nibs). 

We recently got a few new machines to help us make ground chocolate from untempered blocks of chocolate. You have to be careful not to heat the blocks too much or grind them for too long because, of course, chocolate melts. To grind the blocks, we used to use an industrial food processor, but we’ve recently upgraded to a fancy shmancy granulator that is much quieter, faster, and more consistent. 

Those were cool photos, but I’m still a little confused about how cocoa powder and ground chocolate are different….

Okay – well let’s look at them in the real world. To make hot chocolate we need some heat, right?

What happens if we gently heat cocoa powder and ground chocolate on a double boiler?

Ground chocolate melts over heat

Cocoa powder….does not.

Cocoa powder has between 11% and 22% fat (because it’s nearly impossible to press all the cocoa butter out) and ground chocolate has more like 35% fat, so they behave differently when heated. Heat cocoa powder, and virtually nothing will happen. It balls up a little, but can easily be whisked back to its starting texture. On the other hand, the ground chocolate, a fattier substance with some sugar in it, will melt fast. To return it to its starting state, we’d have to cool it and toss it in a food processor. 

 

Okay, but we still haven’t made hot chocolate…

Another way of illustrating the difference between these too is by looking at what happens when we make hot chocolate with them by adding warmed milk to each. Behold:

When 3 oz of steamed almond milk were added to 2 tablespoons cocoa powder or 2 tablespoons ground chocolate, the cocoa powder rose to the top of the container. Meanwhile, the ground chocolate started to melt.

When stirred, the milk and powders mixed into each other in a similar manner, but the hot chocolate made from ground chocolate was slightly thicker. The hot chocolate made from pure cocoa powder was more bitter since it had no added sugar and a strong chocolate flavor, but it was less creamy and rich and noticeably thinner. The hot chocolate made from the ground chocolate was thicker and clung to the whisk a little more.

Here at the factory, without a 50-tonne hydraulic cocoa butter press, we don’t have or make cocoa powder, and so we’re only left with what we do make: chocolate. This is a fundamental difference between our pastry kitchen and most pastry kitchens, where cocoa powder is a baking staple. Our Executive Pastry Chef, Lisa Vega, and her team are constantly improvising ways to work with chocolate instead of cocoa powder to make cakes, cookies, custards, and more. Single origin ground chocolate brings a few more challenges to the table—the fat level varies from origin to origin—and you can’t just swap ground chocolate in for cocoa powder because, as you’ve seen, they are quite different.

But lucky for me, I get to savor the rich chocolatey hot chocolate from our pastry team every day. Later this year, you’ll get a full look inside our kitchen and all of its secrets as part of the book we’ve been writing for the last two years, coming out in late fall. But for now, we’ll include a recipe for our hot chocolate below. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I need to go order myself another cup. And stay tuned for our next installment of Education Station, where we’ll explore some more chocolate mysteries. Next stop: Is White Chocolate, Chocolate?

“Keep your eyes on the stars, and your feet on the ground [chocolate].” – Theodore Roosevelt

Our house hot chocolate is one of the simplest, most delicious ways to enjoy chocolate as a drink. We recommend it with marshmallows or nibby whipped cream, both of which you’ll find in our book—a guide to making chocolate at home, sourcing beans, and making pastries with single origin chocolate—coming out later this year!

Our House Hot Chocolate

2½ cups / 567 grams / 20 ounces nonfat milk

1 tablespoon packed / 10 grams light brown sugar

1½ cups / 227 grams / 8 ounces 70% chocolate, chopped

 

  1. Combine 1 cup (225 grams / 8 ounces) of milk and the brown sugar in a large heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water.
  1. Add the chocolate to the hot milk and whisk to combine, keeping the bowl over the pot to continue . Whisk the mixture for an additional 3 minutes, until shiny and emulsified. This mix——may seem quite thick at this point.
  1. Whisk in the rest of the milk, adding it in a slow stream, and heat for another 4 to 5 minutes, whisking occasionally, until hot.
  1. Remove the bowl from the pot of water, pour the hot chocolate into mugs, and serve immediately.